......Release the potential
......Release the potential
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LOCH BAY SEAFOOD RESTAURANT STEIN ISLE OF SKYE
If restaurants were graded using chimneys as their level indicator and currently the best place on the Isle of Skye has three chimneys, then I have found a place that has four. It’s a long road to Skye by any measure whether by road or ferry over the sea, so when you are there you really don’t want to waste time on poor quality food served in an ungracious manner, on the other hand nor do you want a fancy approach in which you loose any sense of place. Skye is beautiful, it is rugged, it can be windy and wet it is wild and un- tamed and to really appreciate this you need a sense of it. A restaurant should be as much of its environment as it should be of itself. In this neck of the woods fisherman work hard to bring in the creels or tend the nets and with a horizontal gale force wind this can be a hard way to earn a living. To find a place which respects this work and makes excellent use of it is hard indeed, but let me introduce you to Stein, pronounced “Steen” as in Jock not as in Rick. The tiny fishing village of Stein with its long row of houses clustered together for warmth face directly onto the Atlantic. It’s reached by a single track road which winds gently down hill passing by crofts and cottages on a westerly spit of Skye heading north from Dunvegan, and curls down to the village and on to the pier at the end of the street. The last house not ten paces from the pier is where David Wilkinson plies his skilful trade. He has been the chef at Arisaig House as well as at Thistles in Cromarty both of which establishments reached culinary highs when he was behind the stoves. David worked for a time on the Michelin guide so learnt a thing or two about what the guides look for. Now he has settled in this far-flung corner with wife Alison. His skills are in the sourcing and buying of excellent fresh shellfish and then preparing it simply and cooking it to perfection, no fuss no frills, just “simply sublime seafood”. Food is sourced where possible from Skye but if supply is not reliable or the quality is not good enough then he is not afraid to go further afield. Oysters on my visit came from Ireland, whilst I as a purist might object to this; the taste and texture overcame any qualms. I knew I was in the hands of a craftsman. The short menu is big on shellfish - oysters, scallops, prawns and lobster and there is a black board with “today’s catch”. Here David goes in not just for “West End” favourites such as monkfish or halibut but you may find megrim or codling or hake, all treated the same way with an emulsion of olive oil and lemon juice and then grilled and served with fresh garlic butter (nothing out of a jar here). Simple vegetables and potatoes or hand cut chips provide a perfect accompaniment. Puddings are homely and simply presented creating a perfect finish. Loch Bay Seafood restaurant
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